Suppli & Roman Street Snacks Tasting Tour
- Duration
- 1.5 hours
- Category
- Street Food Classics
- Cancellation
- Free, up to 24 hours before
- Price
- From €20 / adult
About this experience
What to expect
Roman street food is mostly small, fried and eaten on the go. At the top of the list sits supplì: a croquette of rice that has been seasoned, filled, coated in breadcrumbs and fried until crisp. It is a snack with a long history, a famous nickname and a genuine local following.
What supplì is
Supplì is an oval ball or cylinder of rice cooked with a tomato and meat ragù, then shaped around a small piece of mozzarella. It is rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. The classic version is supplì al telefono. When you bite it in half, the melted mozzarella stretches into a string that resembles an old telephone cord, and that is where the name comes from.
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The anatomy of a good one
A good supplì is judged on a few features.
- The crust: thin, even and crisp, not thick or oily.
- The rice: well seasoned and slightly sticky so it holds its shape, with tomato flavour running through it.
- The centre: mozzarella that is properly molten, which means it is eaten hot.
- The oil: clean and hot, so the coating seals quickly.
Where it comes from
The name is generally thought to come from the French word surprise, in reference to the hidden filling. Rice dishes of this sort became popular in nineteenth-century Rome, and supplì are typically sold in friggitorie, small fry shops that specialise in fried food. Many of them also serve pizza al taglio, which is pizza sold by the slice.
The wider Roman snack family
Supplì is only one member of a family of fried and baked snacks found around Rome.
Crocchette are potato croquettes. Fiori di zucca are courgette flowers, often stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy. Filetti di baccalà are battered salt cod fillets, a very Roman tradition. Olive ascolane are stuffed fried olives, originally from the Marche region but widely eaten in Rome. Then there is pizza bianca, simple bread with olive oil, which many people eat alongside fried snacks.
Eating supplì properly
Eat it fresh and hot. Take a bite from one end, wait for the cheese to stretch and keep a napkin to hand. Supplì are small enough to eat with your fingers, and most Romans do. A glass of cold beer or a simple white wine suits them well, as the acidity and bubbles cut through the richness.
Why frying is a craft
Good frying is a skill. Hot oil that is changed regularly gives a light, golden coating, while stale or cool oil produces heaviness. This is one reason Romans have favourite shops and are quite loyal to them.
The history of fried food in Rome is closely tied to the city’s way of life. Frying was a practical method for feeding people quickly and cheaply, and it made good use of leftovers: cooked rice and leftover ragù, for example, are exactly what supplì are made from. Romans have long treated these snacks as a mid-afternoon pleasure or an accompaniment to an aperitivo, and the habit is still very much alive in the city’s small fry shops.
It is also worth watching how the locals order. Many people ask for a single supplì, eat it at the counter and go on their way within minutes. The experience is quick, informal and unfussy, which is exactly what makes it so characteristic of Roman street food.
Useful information
- Supplì contain gluten, dairy and often meat. Mention allergies and dietary needs when you book.
- Fried snacks are at their finest straight from the fryer, so eat them hot.
- Carry tissues or wet wipes for oily fingers.
Know before you go
- Vegetarian supplì exist in some places, but the classic version contains meat ragù, so check before ordering.
- Wear comfortable shoes, as street-food walks in Rome usually involve cobblestones.
Frequently asked questions
▸Why is it called supplì al telefono?
The melted mozzarella stretches into a string when you bite the croquette in half. It looks like a telephone cord, which gave the snack its nickname.
▸Is supplì the same as arancini?
They are related but not identical. Supplì are Roman and usually oval with a tomato and mozzarella centre; arancini are Sicilian rice balls, often round or conical, with a range of fillings.
▸What is a friggitoria?
A friggitoria is a small shop that sells fried food to take away. In Rome the menu often features supplì, crocchette and fried salt cod.
▸What is baccalà?
Baccalà is salted cod. In Rome it is often battered and fried as a snack or served in stews.
▸What are fiori di zucca?
They are courgette flowers. In Rome they are commonly filled with mozzarella and anchovy, coated in batter and fried.
▸What does supplì mean?
The name is thought to derive from the French word for surprise, referring to the cheese hidden inside the rice.
▸Can vegetarians eat supplì?
The traditional version is made with a meat ragù, so vegetarians should ask. Some shops also make versions with plain tomato or other fillings.
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