Eating in San Lorenzo, Rome

San Lorenzo grew up around Rome's main university, La Sapienza, and it still eats and drinks like a student neighbourhood — cheap, informal, and busy late into the night, especially on weekdays during the academic year. It was heavily industrial and working-class through the mid-20th century, which is part of why it never got the polish (or the prices) of the historic centre, and why street art and independent bars have taken over old warehouse spaces here more than almost anywhere else in Rome. It's a good neighbourhood for pizza al taglio and simple, filling food rather than a formal sit-down meal, and for an evening that's more about the bar crawl than the dinner itself. Skip it in August, when the university empties out and much of the neighbourhood follows.